The River Thames is often given short shrift when measured against major waterways. Just 210 miles long, it’s the second shortest among principal rivers of the world (World Almanac), but its length belies its importance, economically and in beauty. Rising in the Cotswold Hills, it flows gently eastward across the south of England, through London and out to the North Sea.

In its upper course The Thames winds and turns in all directions meandering through some of the most idyllic and tranquil scenery to be found anywhere. The best way to see and enjoy these surroundings is by boat and the Actief hotel barge that sails between Shillingford and Windsor on a seven day; six-night schedule from April to October is a perfect choice.

At 2:00 on a Sunday, our group of five meets and exchanges introductions at London’s hundred year-old, family run Goring Hotel that establishes an English country house party mood at the outset. Lee, from New England, has left her five cats, four dogs and two motorcycles to enjoy a week of relaxation free from responsibility. Cliff and Barbara are from Down Under. Just ending a month’s journey, they’re in need of some R and R before the long flight home to Sydney. We complete the group. Barge captain Martin Pocock takes us in hand and soon we’re on a minibus headed for Shillingford, about an hour away, where the Actief is tied up.

A brief stop en route at the post card village of Ewelme (Yule m), where the principal industry is the raising of watercress, allows us to visit St. Mary’s Church, built in 1420 and site of the tombs of Geoffrey Chaucer’s son and daughter. The almshouses are in tact and a primary school, also dating back to 1420, is still in operation. From here it’s just a ten-minute ride to Actief, moored in an idyllic setting by a 1784 triple-arched stone bridge.

Hostesses Bernadette (Bernie) from Australia and Mandy from South Africa and English Chef Stephen, who has trained in Swiss ski resorts, are on hand to greet us. Nearby picnickers are muchly interested as we parade from minivan to barge decked out in attire ranging from designer suit to cut-offs to a blazer and with an assortment of suitcases -- rolling duffle, oilskin bags and a Louis Vuitton carry-on.

The Actief was built as a Dutch klipper in 1907 and designed for the fast-flowing rivers and estuaries of Holland. Jay Parratt purchased the Actief (Dutch for active) in 1975 and had it converted to passenger use with accommodations for 11 persons in three suites, two twins and a single cabin. The large open, carpeted deck with tables and chairs, is lined with hundreds of multi-colored pansies and bellis daisies in spectacular full bloom. Inside the comfortable, tastefully decorated saloon are a service bar, sitting area and two dining tables, one of which is set for afternoon tea. Rachmaninov’s Piano Concerto No. 2 is the perfect accompaniment for scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam and cups of Earl Grey.

As with all barges cabins, one floor below, are small; however, they’ve come a long way since vacation barging began in France in 1966. Each is individually decorated with original stenciling and has its own bathroom and tile shower. They’re comfortable in bed and breakfast or country house style though we wish for a few more hooks.

Afternoon tea segues into cocktail time with delicious hors d’oeuvres and champagne and a formal welcome from the captain. Dinner portends great culinary treats ahead as we enjoy parmesan and parsnip soup and beef Wellington, accompanied by asparagus and scalloped potatoes, crème brulee with fresh berries, a splendid French merlot, an excellent Chablis and a choice of cheese from among 22 different ones that will be served during the week.

At 9:00 next morning Actief begins its winding route through the flat farmlands. Wooded areas close to the shoreline are thick with weeping willows, copper beeches, white maybushes, lilacs and pink horse chestnuts. In the background fields of yellow rape frame church steeples.

We’re in the chalky Goring Gap, classic haunt of Jerome K. Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat, as we approach Cleve Lock, our first of 17, (there are a total of 44 on the Thames).

The lock keeper tends his immaculate garden while keeping his eye on things. Walkers wave to us as they stroll along the Thames Path, a National Trail that is the only path to follow a river from beginning to end. Originally a towpath, its route passes through leafy hillsides, banks lined with grasses, and in front of stately homes, terraced houses and waterside pubs.

At Pangbourne we tie up by The Swan, a 1642 pub also mentioned in Three Men in a Boat, and board a waiting minibus that takes us to Christ Church College and Cathedral, Oxford for a guided tour led by our captain. He proves to be as skilled at tour conducting as he is in piloting Actief. Afterwards there’s time for shopping or relaxing at the 1864 Randolph Hotel. This evening we enjoy another of Chef Stephen’s fabulous dinners, this one featuring bruchetta with proscuitto and cheese followed by guinea fowl with spinach and Duchesse potatoes and, by request, icky sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Later Stephen, Mandy and Bernie join three of us at The Swan for a nightcap.

Next day Actief moves southward to Mapledurham where we’re met by a local guide. The 2000-acre preserve is set in an area that has long been a source of inspiration for writers, artists and poets. Grounds sweep down to the river, and include an Elizabethan manor house, stone and flint chapel, cottages, a working 15th century water-mill, a dairy and a herd of 400 Holstein cows that supplies milk to the London branch of Marks & Spencer. Completed in 1612 by Sir Richard Blount, Mapledurham is still occupied by the Blount family.

Back on the barge we pass through Reading, the place where Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde was imprisoned in 1897, (The Ballad of Reading Gaol), and tie up for the night at Henley, site of the world famous Royal Regatta (1829) held the first week in July. Though the regatta is several weeks away the town is buzzing with activity. The Actief moors close by the prestigious Leander Club, founded in 1818, and the world’s oldest rowing club. Tents have been erected to house sculls that will be competing, the pathway is busy with runners in training and the many moored boats announce the forthcoming regatta.

Actief’s owner, Jay Parratt, comes aboard to escort our group on a walk through the town that ends with a private tour of the River & Rowing Museum. The award-winning museum has three galleries illustrating the river, the town and rowing. Jay also explains the tradition of swan-upping. In this annual July ceremony, repeated since the 12th century, new cygnets have their bills nicked to denote ownership between the Crown, and the dyers’ and vintners’ companies. During our absence Bernie and Mandy have prepared pitchers of refreshing Pimm’s Cup, a Henley tradition. Brent geese, sensing that luncheon preparations are underway, glide back and forth hoping for a handout over the rail.

At Hurley, we moor in a bucolic setting surrounded by meadowland and grazing sheep. On a stroll through the village, there’s a stop for coffee in the garden at Ye Olde Bell Hotel, reputedly the oldest inn in England, founded in 1135. A special treat is a tour of the world-famous Peter Freebody boatyard, designers and restorers of luxury launches, including steam lunches, whose clients come from distances as far as Kuwait and the United States. Freebody’s popular slipper launch, based on the original 1913 design, is finished with eight coats of varnish.

Cliveden, further down river, was built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham and in 1906 was purchased by William Waldorf Astor whose wife, Nancy, became the first female Member of Parliament. Owned by the National Trust, it’s now leased as a luxury hotel. We moor for the night at the landing below the drive and take the minibus up to see the stunning gardens that include charming walks, a formal parterre and water gardens. Perched on a steep slope is an octagonal temple designed by Giacomo Leoni in 1735 and converted to a chapel by Astor in 1893. At our final stop, Windsor, there’s a tour of Eton College, founded in 1440. The famous public (private) school has educated 18 prime ministers as well as Prince William.

On the last night we celebrate with a captain’s dinner and toast him for a perfect cruise.